Important Points to Remember in Finger Waving:
The hair must be thoroughly saturated in order to obtain the best results.
The hair should be combed smooth and into the direction it is to be waved. The hair should then be pushed up with palm of the hand to ascertain the direction of the natural wave. The durability of the wave depends entirely upon following the natural wave.
The smoothness and durability of the finger wave is also due to the continual combing. It is necessary that the teeth of the comb penetrate the scalp. This eliminates any straight hair underneath and is accomplished by bringing the comb under the finger and combing the hair until the comb is free.
The amount of hair taken upon the comb should never be over one inch on the sides and 1/2 inch at the crown. One of the chief faults in finger waving is swinging the hair too far, When hair is spare upon the head, the wave
should be swung into position and then the comb should be drawn back slightly, which will allow the hair to cover the bare spaces.
A becoming style should be decided upon and the waves mathematically figured to fit the head, before the wave is begun.
There is a tendency to push the hair up on the head rather than to draw the hair in a tight, straight line. In forming waves, the finger should always be placed slightly above the ridge to avoid the ridge being formed lower than the one previously made.
The small strands of hair to be made into face curls should be removed before commencing the wave. These are not curled or pinned until the finish of the wave but are moistened with finger wave lotion and shaped to the face.
Finger wave lotion [setting lotion] should never be used too generously or of too thick consistency, as it will flake on the hair and retard the drying action. Thin hair should be set without lotion as it makes the wave too flat on the head.
The finish at the back of the head is as important as the face line and the hair if too short to make into curls, should be waved as far as possible. If the hair at the hair line is too straight and stubborn to curl, the ends should be turned on a warm bob curl iron [curling iron] when the wave is dry.
The nicest finish for the finger wave is pin curls; however, some women prefer the curls rolled on a stick as described in the Wet Mae Murray. If curls are to be rolled up at the lower back section of the head, a heavy cord--two ends of which are held tightly at the front by the patron--will keep the hair hair smooth while the operator is rolling the curls.
The size of the wave is governed by the placement of the fingers below the ridge, as follows:
● To produce a small wave, the fingers are not moved after they straddle the ridge, but the hair is drawn along the finger with the fingers still in this position.
● To produce a medium wave, the finger is rolled a half turn downward after the fingers have been placed astride the wave.
● To produce a large wave, both index finger and middle finger are placed
below the ridge and the hair drawn along the index finger.
● If the ridges are to be deepened the hair will have to be moistened between the waves. This is accomplished by sprinkling the center of the waves with water on the comb. You may use the index and middle fingers to sharpen the ridge.
Rules for shaping the hair properly around the ears:
● If the wave is directed forward in the section of hair just above the ear, 1/2 inch of hair is included from behind the ear, while if the wave is directed backward at this point 1/2 inch of hair from the front is included.
● As a general rule, it is considered much better to wave directly over the ear.
● The hair must not be wet.
● At the point where the wave reaches the ear, the comb should be tilted slightly backward to control the hair.
● In shaping the wave the hair should be held out away from the ear. Otherwise the forming of the wave is the same. The hair must not only fit well around the ears when waved, must match when dried and combed.